National Slate Museum

Update: On July 28th 2021, The Slate Landscape of Northwest Wales became a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

This is probably the most stunningly located museum in Wales. The village of Llanberis is a popular base for those wanting to climb Mount Snowdon, its also the departure point of the Snowdown Mountain Railway and the home of the interesting (though sadly closed for the foreseeable future) Electric Mountain Visitors’ Centre. The twin blue lakes of Llyn Padarn and Llyn Peris and the surrounding green mountains, with their purple-grey slate quarry scars, provide as visually appealing a backdrop as they come!

Once you’ve stood around and gawked at the scenery for a while, it’s time to take a closer look at the museum. The grey stone buildings were the engineering workshops for Dinorwig slate quarry from their construction in 1870 until its closure in 1969. Walk through the gatehouse and into a courtyard strewn with rail wagons and spare parts. You’d be forgiven for thinking the workmen had just gone home for the weekend – and that’s the effect they’re going for here. Cast your eye over the Chief Engineer’s house furnished as it would have been in 1911, imagine the heat of the foundry as workers pour molten iron and make castings and visit UNA the steam engine. Climb the staircase or take a lift to view the largest working waterwheel in mainland Britain, then see a live slate splitting demonstration before visiting Fron Haul, the little terrace of Quarrymen’s cottages where you’ll travel through time from 1861 to 1969.

There are usually plenty of activities for little ones to enjoy and a play area with zip-wire for them to burn off some energy!

Once you’ve finished your visit, you’ll find plenty more things to do in North Wales. Take a look at my North Wales map to find out more.

Getting Here, Entry Charges and Parking

The closest railway station is Bangor from where you can take a taxi (approx 25 minutes, £30) or bus (approx 55 minutes, £4) to Llanberis. Note that buses typically run only every 2-3 hours. See Traveline Cymru for timetables (link below).

Entry to the National Slate Museum is free.

Chargeable parking is available at the Museum.

Useful Websites:

National Slate Museum: https://museum.wales/slate

Traveline Cymru: https://www.traveline.cymru

CK Cabs Snowdon Taxis: http://www.snowdontaxi.com

Henrhyd Waterfall

Henrhyd Waterfall, Powys
Henrhyd Waterfall, Powys

If this waterfall looks familiar, you might recognise it as the entrance to the Bat Cave from the 2012 film The Dark Knight Rises. At 88 feet, Henrhyd is the highest waterfall in South Wales and, thanks to its movie appearance and the resulting increase in people wanting to see it, work has been completed in recent years to make it more accessible without risking damage to the surrounding Site of Special Scientific Interest.

The full walk will take about 2-3 hours but just walking to the falls takes only about 10 minutes. Almost as soon as you leave the car par and start along the path, you can hear the sound of the waterfall and catch a glimpse of it though the trees. At this point you are slightly higher than the top of the falls. The path heads down into the valley to the level of the riverbank below the falls. When you reach that point, the main Nant Llech walk heads off to the right. Turning left, the path leads to a bridge and on to the waterfall basin. If there’s been a lot of rainfall in the days before your visit there will be a lot of spray and the path can be quite slippery so be careful. But if you’re prepared to get wet, you can get really close to the waterfall and even walk behind it.

Henrhyd is just as beautiful in summer or winter.

Other Nearby Waterfalls

Melincourt Waterfall

Four Waterfalls Walk

Useful Information

Car Parking is free.

Henrhyd Falls and Nant Llech walk Map

GPS Coordinates: 51.795628, -3.664320

Postcode: SA10 9PG

This postcode gets you to the village of Coelbren. If your Sat Nav takes you along the A4221 and into the village from the west, keep driving until you exit the village and come to a cross roads. Turn left at the crossroads and the Henrhyd Falls carpark will be on your left a few hundred yards up the hill. If your Sat Nav takes you along Camnant Road (a wide single lane road through some beautiful scenery) keep going until you come to a crossroads, just before a bridge, with a sign for Coelbren pointing to the left. Do not turn left towards Coelbren, cross the bridge and the Henrhyd Falls carpark will be on your left a few hundred yards up the hill.

Melincourt Waterfall

Melincourt Waterfall, Neath Port Talbot
Melincourt Waterfall, Neath Port Talbot

This is an excellent place to stop for a short break if you’re heading to West Wales along the M4 Motorway or the A465 “Heads of The Valleys” road.

Melincourt waterfall is often overlooked because it’s out on its own, away from the better known falls of the nearby Waterfall Country. In my opinion though, it’s as impressive as any of the others and, despite its advantage of being even easier to access, it is usually relatively quiet. Park up in the small free carpark, cross the road and take a short easy stroll along the riverbank through a wooded area. After about 5-10 minutes you’ll reach the lower pool of this 80ft high waterfall.

Other Nearby Waterfalls

Henrhyd Waterfall

Four Waterfalls Trail

Useful Information

Parking is free.

GPS Coordinates: 51.704186, -3.706982

Postcode: SA11 4AS

This postcode will get you to the main road within a few hundred yards of the carpark which is just off the road and is well signposted.

Roman Caerleon

Caerleon Amphitheatre        © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2019) Cymru Wales
Caerleon Amphitheatre © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2019) Cymru Wales

I went to school in the small town of Caerleon. From the age of five it seemed to me that every single school trip we ever went on involved walking the short distance, hand in hand with a classmate, from the school gate to the Roman Legion Museum. I probably enjoyed it the first time, I don’t remember. What I do remember is that 10 year old me got pretty bored of all things Roman.

Quite a few years have passed since then and these days my views have changed a little. Going to school in a town that used to be a permanent Roman legionary fortress, one of only three in Britain – well, that’s pretty cool actually.

Back in the first century AD, modern day Caerleon was known as Isca and was home to the 5,500 infantry troops of the Second Augustan Legion. Nearly two thousand years later there’s still quite a lot left to see. Start your visit at the National Roman Legion Museum on High Street where you’ll get an historical overview of Isca. Unearthed artefacts on display include plenty of pottery, gemstones, mosaics, helmets and even human remains. Step outside and enjoy a few quiet moments in the Roman garden, where you can find out about the many plants the Romans introduced to Britain. One thing I remember with fondness from my school trip days is the recreated barrack room, where soldiers slept and stored their weapons. Children will love trying on some armour for the full experience.

After your museum visit, walk the 150 yards or so back along High Street to the Fortress Baths. When you go in, pick up a copy of CADW’s excellent guidebook, it includes a self-guided tour of the baths. Explore the remains of the natatio, an open-air swimming pool where Isca’s inhabitants came to relax. Learn more about the other pools and rooms at the bath house – the frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium – and how the Romans used different temperatures, oils, water and a metal scraping tool called a strigil to complete their cleansing experience.

Now head back along High Street and turn left onto Broadway, just opposite the Museum. After a couple of minutes you’ll come to the amphitheatre on your left – picture this place how it used to be, with wooden bench seating able to accommodate some 6,000 cheering spectators. On the opposite side of the road, two-thirds of the way along The Fosse (the tree lined path that runs along the edge of the rugby pitch) you’ll come to the only remains of a Roman Legionary Barracks on view anywhere in Europe. Self-guided tours of both of these places are included in the CADW guidebook.

At a push, you can enjoy Isca’s fascinating history in a half-day visit, but I’d recommend a leisurely full day trip with a break for lunch at one of Caerleon’s many pubs. At some times of the year, the museum may be a little busy with school trips, don’t let the kids’ bored looks put you off – they’ve been here fifty times before – but one day they’ll appreciate it.

Getting Here, Entry Charges and Parking

The closest railway station is Newport from where you can take a taxi to Caerleon. You can also get a bus from Newport bus station.

Entry to the National Roman Legion Museum is free. Entry to the Amphitheatre and Barracks is free. There is a small charge for entry to the Roman Fortress Baths – see the official website (link below) for current prices.

Chargeable parking is available at the Roman Fortress Baths. Free on-street parking is usually available along Broadway (turn left immediately after passing the National Roman Legion Museum).

Useful Websites:

CADW – Roman Fortress and Baths: https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/caerleon-roman-fortress-and-baths

National Roman Legion Museum: https://museum.wales/roman/

Dragon Taxis (Recommended taxis from Newport railway station): https://www.dragontaxis.com/locations/newport

Newport Bus: https://www.newportbus.co.uk/

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Wrexham
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Wrexham

Another of Wales’ UNESCO World Heritage Sites. Built between 1795 and 1805, the Pontcysyllte Aqueduct is a cast iron trough on top of 18 stone piers that carries the Llangollen canal 38m (126ft) high over the River Dee. The design and construction was overseen by respected canal engineer William Jessop, but many of the project’s technical details were developed by Thomas Telford, who would go on to become one of Britain’s most celebrated civil engineers.

Boat trips along the canal and across the aqueduct are available from Llangollen Wharf. The Trevor Basin, adjacent to the aqueduct, has a Visitor Centre and a pleasant canalside Pub. If you’re feeling brave, you can walk along the tow path across the aqueduct. If you do, you’ll be rewarded with some spectacular views. Carry on a little along the canal and enjoy a peaceful calming walk. After that, make your way down into the valley and view the aqueduct from below, the engineering achievement is perhaps even more impressive viewed from this perspective.

So how do you pronounce Pontcysyllte?

The name of this place can be difficult to pronounce if you’re not from Wales (and even for some who are!) It’s pronounced PONT-KUH-SUSTH-TEH

To make the sound I’ve highlighted in bold, put your tongue behind your top front teeth like you would to make an “L” sound and then blow so that the air escapes at either side of your mouth.

Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Wrexham
Pontcysyllte Aqueduct, Wrexham

National Wool Museum

I really like this museum. It’s the least visited of Wales’ National Museums, but I suspect that’s due to it’s more remote location, it’s certainly not because of a lack of quality or interesting exhibits!

Before the coal mining boom in South Wales, wool was the country’s most important industry and the little village of Dre-fach Felindre was at its centre. The Museum is housed in the historic Cambrian Mills building which was built in 1902.

Knowledgeable staff and interesting exhibits explain how the making of woollen cloth in Wales went from cottage industry to mechanised mass production. Each step of the process from fleece to cloth is covered and a wide variety of historic machinery is on display. The Melin Teifi company operate a woollen mill on the premises and the museum’s overhead walkway allows visitors to get a good view of their craftspeople and machinery at work. The products made here are available to buy at the on-site shop.

Oh… and have you ever heard the phrase “I’m on tenterhooks”? You’ll find out where that came from here too!

Welsh Food

Variety is the spice of life and you’ll find a massive range of food options in Wales, particularly so in towns and cities. If you have a hankering for Thai, Chinese, Italian, American or pretty much any other style of food, you’ll find it here. Almost every pub will have a curry on the menu (order it the Welsh way, “half and half” – meaning with rice and chips) and you’ll find fish and chip shops everywhere. But if you want to try some traditional Welsh food – and you really should – here’s my list of things to look out for.

Cawl

A chunky soupy stew usually made with lamb and seasonal vegetables including leeks, potatoes, carrots, swede. I like mine with lots of black pepper and warm crusty bread with Welsh salted butter.

Laverbread

Despite it’s name, this has nothing to do with bread. Laverbread is a type of seaweed often rolled in oats, fried and served as part of a traditional Welsh breakfast along with eggs, bacon and cockles. I’ll be honest, it’s an acquired taste, but worth a go at least once!

Cockles

Small edible molluscs, usually served out of their shells as part of a traditional Welsh breakfast but also found served on their own pickled, deep-fried or cooked in wine.

Pickled Cockles
Pickled Cockles

Welsh Rarebit

Well, this is posh cheese on toast… but it’s better than it sounds… read on! You’ll hear various explanations as to the origin of its name, but I don’t think anyone really knows. A common one is that the pejorative term Welsh Rabbit was originally used by the English since their poorer Welsh neighbours could only afford to eat cheese and not meat. Later, rabbit became rarebit.

Welsh Rarebit is hot cheese sauce served over slices of toasted bread. You’ll often see it with a sauce containing mustard and beer. It’s a simple snack but, done right, with quality ingredients, it’s an absolute delight!

Actually, you’ll find Welsh Rarebit in many parts of the UK but (and maybe this is a culinary form of Nominative Determinism) it has a special place in Welsh hearts and stomachs.

Faggots

It’s likely that we inherited faggots from across the border when people from the English Midlands came to Wales in search of jobs in the Welsh Iron and coal industries. Since then, we’ve embraced them as our own.

I’d like to tell you how good these are before I tell you what they are for reasons that will become apparent. They are a really rich and tasty comfort food – especially good to warm you up on a cold wet day. Faggots are large meatballs made from minced pork meat and offal (like liver and heart) with herbs and spices in a rich gravy. They’re usually accompanied by peas.

The town on Neath claims to be the Faggots and Peas Capital of Wales. Tucked along the back wall of Neath’s indoor market you’ll find Katie’s Kitchen, where they’ve been keeping locals well fed since 1951.

Welsh Cakes

Also called Bakestones or Pics, these are little round flat cakes with currants and/or sultanas. The dough is rolled out, cut with a biscuit cutter and cooked on a bakestone (a flat cast iron griddle which would, in the old days, have been made of stone – hence the name). You’ll find many variations on the original, popular versions contain spices or chocolate chips in place of the fruit. Personally, I prefer the traditional version, nothing beats enjoying one with a cup of tea or coffee.

Welsh Cakes
Welsh Cakes

Bara Brith

Bara Brith (meaning speckled bread) is a cake-like bread (or a bread-like cake, some recipes use yeast, some don’t) with spices and mixed fruit like currants, sultanas and orange peel that have (in the best ones) been soaked in tea, making them deliciously juicy. It’s usually served spread with butter.

Bara Brith © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2019) Cymru Wales
Bara Brith © Hawlfraint y Goron / © Crown copyright (2019) Cymru Wales

Finding Places To Eat Welsh Foods

Some of these will be harder to find than others. Welsh cakes are everywhere, in coffee shops, tea rooms, cafés and supermarkets. For the very best experience, try to find them freshly baked and still warm (like at Cardiff Bakestones who also have diabetic and vegan varieties). My advice is pretty much the same for Bara Brith, although it’s slightly less ubiquitous.

You’ll find cawl and Welsh rarebit in traditional pubs and cafes.

For all the others, my tip would be to head to one of Wales’ many market towns. Some towns have indoor markets open Monday to Saturday. Other towns have open air markets one day a week, many of these will have stalls selling traditional food items.

Penderyn Distillery

Situated in the Brecon Beacons National Park, Penderyn Distillery produces a range of single malt whiskies and other spirits – my favourite is their Sherrywood finish whisky. Tours are available that take you right into the heart of the distillery, where you can smell the malty aroma and feel the heat coming from the distillery’s unique single copper-pot Faraday stills (pre-book online). The tour also includes a small exhibition about Penderyn and whisky making in Wales and a tasting session (or a miniature bottle to take away with you if you’re driving).

The distillery makes a really nice (and well earned) stop off after a walk up nearby Pen y Fan mountain or the Four Waterfalls Trail.

My tips if you’re thinking of buying a bottle to take home with you then be aware that the more common varieties of whisky, gin and vodka are often available at supermarkets in Wales and are usually cheaper than at the distillery gift shop.

Big Pit National Coal Museum

In 2000, UNESCO recognised the industrial landscape around the town of Blaenavon as a World Heritage Site. In the 19th century, South Wales was the world’s major producer of coal and nowhere is this fascinating story better illustrated than at Big Pit National Coal Museum.

Descend 90 metres (300 feet) down the mine shaft for a tour of part of the original underground workings conducted by a former miner. Learn all about the process of extracting and transporting the coal and what life was like as a miner. Back above ground you can wander around the preserved buildings and find out how modern technology has changed the way coal is mined.

(This is a stub article. More information will be posted for this attraction in future site updates.)

Tenby

Tenby, Pembrokeshire
Tenby, Pembrokeshire

A walled town with pastel coloured Victorian buildings, three sandy beaches and a pleasant harbour. Laidback Tenby is one of my absolute favourite places in Wales.

The town walls were constructed by the Earls of Pembroke in the 13th century to fortify the town against the rebellious Welsh. Tenby became a centre for trade with South West England, Spain and Portugal and by the late 15th century it was one of the busiest ports in Wales. You can get a glimpse into what life was like at that time by visiting the Tudor Merchant’s House, a restored three story museum building furnished as it would have been in 1500.

After a siege by Parliamentarian forces during the English Civil War in 1648 and an outbreak of plague in 1650 that killed around 500, more than half of the town’s population, shattered Tenby fell into economic decline. Then, in the early 1800s, businessman and politician Sir William Paxton began investing into the town with the aim of turning it into a fashionable bathing resort. His endeavours were a success and Tenby became popular among tourists in the late Georgian and Victorian eras.

Much of Tenby’s Victorian charm remains. A number of hotels sit along The Esplanade overlooking South Beach (pictured) and St Catherine’s Island. Some have little gardens for guests to sit in and enjoy a drink with a view.

South Beach, Tenby
View of South Beach from the Esplanade, Tenby

Entering through one of the gateway arches into the old town you’ll find a lively mix of traditional and modern shops, cafes and pubs as well as quieter residential areas with quaint pastel-coloured homes. Work your way down the hill and you’ll find yourself at the harbour where a number of boat trips including seal spotting and mackerel fishing can be booked. From there you can head up towards the Castle, Museum and Art Gallery or through another gateway arch and down onto Castle Beach. From the beach you get a close up view of St Catherine’s Island, dominated by its imposing fort. One of a chain of coastal fortifications built around the UK in the 19th century, the fort has since served as a house and a zoo! At times, the Island and Fort are open to visitors.

Like most places this good, Tenby can get a little busy during the peak summer season. My favourite times to visit are May/June or September when the weather is still good but the streets and beaches are a little quieter.

Tenby has lots of independently run hotels, guesthouses and rental accommodation available via the main booking websites. It’s also worth noting that there is also a fairly well located Premier Inn that doesn’t usually show up on those sites.

A quiet Tenby street
A quiet Tenby street

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Porthgain

Porthgain, Pembrokeshire
Porthgain, Pembrokeshire

Porthgain Harbour was built in 1851 to export local slate and was later used to ship bricks, which were made on the eastern side of the harbour, and stone which was stored in large brick-built hoppers, the remains of which still dominate the western side.

This is a beautiful little spot to visit for an hour or so, to enjoy the views out to sea and take a break at the little café or traditional pub, both of which are well regarded. The Pembrokeshire Coast Path passes across the harbour front so it’s also a nice place to start, break or end a walk.

Porthgain is served by a local bus service two days a week in summer and one day a week in winter (Bus TimetablesBus Routes Map).

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The Elan Valley

In the late 19th century, the burgeoning industrial city of Birmingham, across the border in England, was in great need of clean, fresh water. The solution lay in the hills and valleys of Mid Wales. Between 1893 and 1952, five dams (plus the foundations for a sixth) were built on the Elan and Claerwen rivers to form a series of reservoirs from which water enters into an aqueduct and takes three days to fall 52m (171 feet) as it flows the 73 miles to the Frankley Reservoir in Birmingham.

As fascinating as that is, the Elan Valley is on my favourites list simply because of its breathtaking beauty and its wealth of plant and animal life, for example around 180 species of birds have been spotted in the area. Make sure you’ve got plenty of storage space available on your phone or memory card because you’re going to want to take a lot of photographs! It’s an amazing place to discover by car and each dam is easily accessible from the road but there are also lots of walks and cycle routes through the 70 square mile estate.

I recommend beginning your visit at the excellent Visitors’ Centre where you can find out why the geography and geology of this area make it perfect for water collection and storage. There are also regular exhibitions and events, if you arrange it in advance you can even have a ranger join you in your vehicle to give you a guided tour.

Official Website: elanvalley.org.uk

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