I went to school in the small town of Caerleon. From the age of five it seemed to me that every single school trip we ever went on involved walking the short distance, hand in hand with a classmate, from the school gate to the Roman Legion Museum. I probably enjoyed it the first time, I don’t remember. What I do remember is that 10 year old me got pretty bored of all things Roman.
Quite a few years have passed since then and these days my views have changed a little. Going to school in a town that used to be a permanent Roman legionary fortress, one of only three in Britain – well, that’s pretty cool actually.
Back in the first century AD, modern day Caerleon was known as Isca and was home to the 5,500 infantry troops of the Second Augustan Legion. Nearly two thousand years later there’s still quite a lot left to see. Start your visit at the National Roman Legion Museum on High Street where you’ll get an historical overview of Isca. Unearthed artefacts on display include plenty of pottery, gemstones, mosaics, helmets and even human remains. Step outside and enjoy a few quiet moments in the Roman garden, where you can find out about the many plants the Romans introduced to Britain. One thing I remember with fondness from my school trip days is the recreated barrack room, where soldiers slept and stored their weapons. Children will love trying on some armour for the full experience.
After your museum visit, walk the 150 yards or so back along High Street to the Fortress Baths. When you go in, pick up a copy of CADW’s excellent guidebook, it includes a self-guided tour of the baths. Explore the remains of the natatio, an open-air swimming pool where Isca’s inhabitants came to relax. Learn more about the other pools and rooms at the bath house – the frigidarium, tepidarium and caldarium – and how the Romans used different temperatures, oils, water and a metal scraping tool called a strigil to complete their cleansing experience.
Now head back along High Street and turn left onto Broadway, just opposite the Museum. After a couple of minutes you’ll come to the amphitheatre on your left – picture this place how it used to be, with wooden bench seating able to accommodate some 6,000 cheering spectators. On the opposite side of the road, two-thirds of the way along The Fosse (the tree lined path that runs along the edge of the rugby pitch) you’ll come to the only remains of a Roman Legionary Barracks on view anywhere in Europe. Self-guided tours of both of these places are included in the CADW guidebook.
At a push, you can enjoy Isca’s fascinating history in a half-day visit, but I’d recommend a leisurely full day trip with a break for lunch at one of Caerleon’s many pubs. At some times of the year, the museum may be a little busy with school trips, don’t let the kids’ bored looks put you off – they’ve been here fifty times before – but one day they’ll appreciate it.
Getting Here, Entry Charges and Parking
The closest railway station is Newport from where you can take a taxi to Caerleon. You can also get a bus from Newport bus station.
Entry to the National Roman Legion Museum is free. Entry to the Amphitheatre and Barracks is free. There is a small charge for entry to the Roman Fortress Baths – see the official website (link below) for current prices.
Chargeable parking is available at the Roman Fortress Baths. Free on-street parking is usually available along Broadway (turn left immediately after passing the National Roman Legion Museum).
Useful Websites:
CADW – Roman Fortress and Baths: https://cadw.gov.wales/visit/places-to-visit/caerleon-roman-fortress-and-baths
National Roman Legion Museum: https://museum.wales/roman/
Dragon Taxis (Recommended taxis from Newport railway station): https://www.dragontaxis.com/locations/newport
Newport Bus: https://www.newportbus.co.uk/